A Culinary Guide To Cartagena.

Gastronomic Evolution

The Region of Murcia is famous for its rich, diverse and healthy diet, which is in part due to the nature of the fresh produce derived from the area. Many of the basic ingredients produced are unique to the region, such as the Calasparra rice, particular species of fish and seafood of the Mar Menor, or the fruits and vegetables of the Murcia territory or “huerta”. The range of foods enjoyed here, and the way in which they are prepared has been greatly influenced by the movement of people who have inhabited the land, with Roman settlers introducing the art of making preserves and salted fish. Meanwhile, the Arabs brought with them a wealth of cooking secrets and ingredients- predominantly rice and the best methods of growing and cooking it, together with spices, condiments and aromatic plants. The fertile valleys encouraged abundant growth of wheat, olives and grape vines, that are of course the principal ingredients of bread, oil and wine, which in turn form the basis of the super healthy Mediterranean Diet.

From The Sea

With its prime coastal location, it is no surprise that fish and seafood are the fare of choice in homes and restaurants throughout Cartagena. You cannot get much fresher than the regional catch from the Mediterranean Sea and Mar Menor, which includes gilthead sea bream, dusky grouper, dentex or mujol that is found in abundance off the Costa Calida. Local residents use a variety of cooking methods and accompanying ingredients to transform the basic products into a completely unique, tasty dish, with towns and villages throughout Murcia also adding their own twist to traditional recipes. You can expect to enjoy your favourite fish served grilled, roasted, baked in salt, fried, or the most popular cooking method here, as a “caldero” or stew. Restaurants throughout the old quarter pride themselves on their “Caldero del Mar Menor”, combining rice cooked in chicken and fish broth, with a variety of fish such as grey mullet, monkfish, grouper or scorpion fish, tomatoes, garlic and saffron. It is usually cooked in an iron pot, then served with bread and homemade Alioli, not forgetting a few glasses of the local blend of wine! Another typical dish is “Pulpo a la Cartagena”, containing pieces of grilled octopus marinated in olive oil, vinegar of Módena, lemon juice, and salt to taste. This dish is usually served hot, and surprisingly, traditional accompaniments include bread, and wine, the more the better! Any of the local catch baked in salt or “a la sal” is also a popular choice, along with grey mullet roe, salted tuna or “mojama” and juicy Mar Menor prawns.

From The Land

Aside from fruits of the sea, Cartagena relies on fresh produce from the land, “Campo de Cartagena”, with peas, known locally as “pésoles”; tomatoes, which are eaten raw; artichoke and broad beans being produced on a grand scale. These form the basis of a range of stew or broth style dishes, accompanied by a choice of meat or poultry, or as a satisfying vegetarian option. “Olla Gitana” is a hot, soupy mixture of chickpeas, pumpkin, pear, potatoes, saffron, sweet pepper, tomato, and onion. If your meal does not seem substantial enough without meat, why not try “caldo con pelotas” or turkey and meatballs. A portion of the city’s famous “michirones” is also one of its cheap and cheerful signature dishes. Consisting of broad beans, ham chunks, lean bacon, spicy sausage, potatoes, and cayenne pepper, the flavoursome combination is served hot with bread and alioli; and if you had not guessed, best washed down with a few glasses of vino. Game, especially rabbit, hare, deer, partridge and quail, are one of the city’s preferred meat/ poultry choices and often baked in pies or found in dishes alongside of rice, beans and garlic; whilst pork also serves a significant part of the city’s staple diet. A wide variety of spiced sausages, morcón, spicy longanizas, morcilla black puddings and cured hams are among Cartagena’s gastronomic pork based delights, and can be served either as part of a main dish or as a simple snack with crusty bread.  Kid and suckling lamb are typically enjoyed in the home to mark a special occasion, with one of the most popular recipes being the unique “chuletas de cordero al ajo cabañil”, which combines suckling lamb chops served with a dressing made from chopped garlic, vinegar and a bay leaf.

Rice Cultivation

As in other parts of Spain, rice forms a significant part of the staple diet in homes throughout Cartagena, and even more so as it has been specially cultivated in Murcia for centuries. It was the Muslims who initially introduced this crop throughout the region; and by the fourteenth Century it was being heavily cultivated in the area of Calasparra, and prepared for export to Majorca and North Africa. Today, Murcian rice, with the Denomination of Origin “Calasparra”, for example the exquisite rice known as “Bomba”, is famous across the globe and said to produce some of the finest “arroces” in the country. Naturally, it has since become a vital component of Murcian cuisine. When cooked correctly, Bomba and Calasparra rice have the ability to absorb three times as much liquid as normal long grain rice, remaining extremely flavourful but beautifully al dente. Those living on the coast take advantage of the delicious range of seafood that they have at their fingertips, combining it in sumptuous rice dishes such as specialty rice with clawed lobster, rice with anchovies and the pride of Murcia, “arroz de caldero Murciano”. The latter has the appearance of paella, but the natives will happily educate you on the differences between this and the dish traditionally served in the neighbouring region of Valencia.

Just Desserts

Those with a sweet tooth will not be able to resist the syrupy flavour of the regional dessert, “Tocino de Cielo”. Similar to the creme caramel, this yellow coloured treat is made from caramelized yolk and sugar, which is then soaked in a syrup prepared with water, sugar, cinnamon, and lemon peel. It is refrigerated until it sets and feels firm to touch, then served chilled. “Cabello de Ángel” is a unique dish of pumpkin strands soaked in syrup; “bizcochos borrachos” consists of sponge soaked in wine and syrup; “tortada murciana” is a very sweet meringue; and “paparajotes”, is an aromatic dessert of Arab origin which is made with lime leaves wrapped in a fine sweet pastry and coated in sugar and cinnamon. Other must-try sweet treats and pastries which are served locally include a wide selection of marzipans from Moratalla, nougat, Caravaca’s prized sugared egg yolks and macaroons. Fruit is often eaten as a dessert, with the selection varying in accordance with the time of year. Peaches in white wine, oranges with cinnamon, strawberries from Rincón de Seca, pears, apricots and every other type of Mediterranean fruit are readily nibbled after a meal. On that note, Cartagena boasts a thriving fruit preserve and honey industry, whose produce the local manufacturers will tell you holds a hint of the delicate aromas of the fields. Spaniards of course love their cheese, which is often nibbled on its own in chunks; or served as a Tapa with bread, ham, and yes you guessed it, a few glasses of wine. Cartagena’s own cheeseboard delivers a range of high quality blends including goat’s cheeses, cottage and cured cheeses, with various herbs and spices added to flavour.

Wine Production

Murcia has cultivated grapevines and been recognized as one of the nation’s main wine producing regions since Roman times, and Cartagena’s port has historically proven useful in the export of its goods. As well as those from the Campo de Cartagena, you will also find a variety of excellent wines from Ricote, Abanilla, and the three “Denominaciones de Origen”: Jumilla, Yecla and Bullas. Whilst red wine tends to be the firm favourite among Spaniards, Cartagena also produces a selection of whites and rosés with rich bouquets to suit every palate.

Moreish Liqueur

Although wine might seem to be a compulsory addition to every menu, it is not the only tipple to be supped by the locals in copious volumes. “Licor 43” or “Cuarenta y Tres” is a Spanish liqueur that has been wholly produced in Cartagena since 1924, and is now exported to more than 70 countries. As the name suggests, it combines forty- three wonderful flavours, with its principal ingredients being citrus and tangy fruit juices, flavoured with vanilla and a plethora of other aromatic herbs and spices. The presence of a rum-like kick makes the liqueur quite potent, and at 31%abv / 62 proof it is best drank in moderation! “Asiático” is a popular after dinner drink which relies on the liqueur to give it a unique twist. Consisting of coffee with condensed milk, a splash of cognac, a few drops of the famous Licor 43, and cinnamon to taste, a dose of Asiático provides a very agreeable way to round off the evening and is certainly worth a try, but be warned that one glass is never enough!

Eating Out

As a thriving, cosmopolitan city, Cartagena offers a broad selection of places to eat and drink, from fine dining to bustling tapas bars, serving up a wealth of flavours from around the world. There is certainly something to suit every palate and budget, so whether you fancy eating Italian, French, German, Chinese, Thai, Indian, Mexican or a serving of traditional Spanish cuisine, you are guaranteed to find what you need to satisfy your craving.  Whether you are planning to visit or make a more permanent move to Cartagena, there are an elite circle of restaurants that come highly recommended, and truly demonstrate the essence of the city’s cuisine.  Restaurant “Raimundo González”, which was awarded with one sun by the “CAMPSA” Guide, has become an institution within the city as a result of its commendable use of local ingredients. Restaurant “El Chaleco” was a proud representative for the region at “Expo” in Seville; “Hispano”, offers a different home-made stew every day; and “José María-Los Churrascos”, promises to serve some of the freshest, finest fish and seafood which you will ever taste. ¡Buen Provecho!